Most people think Skardu's season ends when the summer crowds leave. It doesn't. October is when the valley changes colour, the roads empty out, and the light gets noticeably better. It's also the last stretch before winter makes travel harder, so if Skardu is on your list this year, this is the month to go.

From mid-October, the poplars and willows lining Skardu's villages and riverbanks start turning yellow and gold. Against the grey mountains and clear autumn skies, it's a completely different valley from the green one you see in summer photos. Shigar and Khaplu are especially good for this, with orchards and old tree-lined lanes that peak in the second half of the month.

Autumn is harvest time in Baltistan. Apricots are drying on rooftops, apples and walnuts are coming in, and local markets are at their fullest. Pick up dried apricots and walnuts in Skardu bazaar; they're fresher and cheaper here than anything you'll find back home.

With the summer rush over, the popular lakes are quiet again. You can have Upper Kachura or Sadpara almost to yourself on a weekday morning. Jeeps and drivers are easier to book, and you'll spend more of your day seeing things and less of it waiting.

Plan for cold. Days are pleasant and sunny, but mornings and nights drop close to freezing by late October. Pack layers, a proper jacket and something warm to sleep in.

High-altitude routes start closing. Deosai usually shuts to traffic once the first heavy snow falls, so check conditions locally before planning a trip up. Flights into Skardu remain weather-dependent year-round, so keep a buffer day at the end of your trip.

Staying close to the airport makes October logistics much easier, especially if a flight gets rescheduled. Lokal's Katpana Retreat sits in the Katpana cold desert just minutes from Skardu airport, with private lodges set against the dunes and mountains. It's an easy base for day trips to Shigar, Khaplu and the lakes.

October is Skardu at its most photogenic and least crowded, but the window is short. Go in the first three weeks of the month for the best balance of colour and weather.